When you’re paddling out, a lot of different things can go through your head. Where in the lineup should I be? How hard should I be paddling? Which wave is “mine”? Here are 30 Rules of Surfing To Follow When You Paddle Out.
1. Get to Know Your Surfboard
First, get to know the surfboard and just practice balancing on it. Sit on the board, lay down on it, swim on it, the whole nine yards. Position yourself in the center of the board and keep the board as flat as possible on the water. Before you even start paddling out, know your board inside and out.
2. Maintain Your Form
When it comes to paddling, form is everything. Raise your head and lift your chest when you paddle. Bend your arms at the elbows, approximately 90 degrees and cup your hands to make a scoop. Try to paddle slowly and smoothly, finishing each paddle before starting the next one. Finish your paddle by flicking your wrist as your arm moves past your hip. The power in your paddle is the point where your arm moves past your hip.
3. Know When And Where To Paddle Out
Always paddle around the peak of the wave using the channel, which is a deep spot in the ocean where the waves don’t break. Never paddle straight into the peak of the wave. This is where people are taking off on the wave which means you will be right in their way. When your wave is over, paddle as fast as you can to the channel so you are out of the way of other people surfing behind you. You can always rest once you are out of the way of other surfers.
You want to paddle out in the most efficient way possible where you use the least amount of energy. Assess the condition, determine the peak or placement in the lineup you want to surf and locate the easiest way to enter the water and paddle out. You are looking for an area where there are lesser waves and where the power is considerably weaker, this is called the channel. This will save energy from turtle rolls or duck dives but be sure you are well out of the way of other surfers. Do not paddle through the “heart of the lineup” or close to the shoulder where you may impact someone’s wave.
4. Hold Onto Your Board
Never let go of your surfboard, even if there is a big wave that’s about to pound you. There could be someone behind you and your surfboard could hit them. Losing control of your board is a big no go, especially in a crowded spot. Whether you are riding a little twin fin 5’6” or cruising on your 10’ longboard, this is something to always avoid.
Remember how long that board is, especially with another 6-10 feet of leash. That gives you a very large circumference around you for where your board may end up. Be aware of your board at all times, as to not endanger yourself and other surfers. Obviously, when you are learning, it is hard to stay in control but just be careful and mindful at all times.
5. Wait Your Turn
The pack of surfers located near the main peak of a wave is known as the lineup. Surfers lineup next to each other and wait their turn to catch a wave. Cutting in front of someone in order to catch a wave sooner is known as snaking and is completely frowned upon in surfing.
6. If You’re Just Starting Out, Avoid The Middle Of The Lineup
If you’re a beginner you should try to avoid paddling out into the middle of a pack of experienced veterans. Try to go out to a less crowded beginner break. You’ll know you’re in the wrong spot if locals give you the stink eye. Be aware of where you are and what’s expected of you.
7. Respect The Right Of Way
The general rule of thumb is the person closest to the peak of the wave as the right of way. If both people are side by side at the peak, then the person to their feet first has the right of way.
The surfer closest to the peak of the wave has the right of way. If you are sitting in the lineup and a left-hand wave is opening for you but someone closer to the peak is paddling for it, they have the right of way. If you find yourself on the other side be sure to stop paddling or safely exit the wave while keeping control of your board. This will allow the surfer who is in the better position to complete their ride.
8. Don’t Drop In
Dropping in means when a surfer is already up and riding on a wave and another surfer further down the line paddles and pops up. Be sure to look both ways when paddling for a wave, this will aid you as a surfer to start deciding whether it is a left or a right-hand wave. Furthermore, you will also see if someone is already up and riding, if so, stop paddling and allow that rider to continue their wave.
As a beginner so much focus is on just catching the wave we sometimes forget to look over our shoulder until it’s too late and we hear a whistle or worse from the person we have dropped in on. Avoid this by always looking both ways and over your shoulder before taking the wave.
9. Don’t Snake
Let’s say there are two surfers, Kai and Lysander. Lysander has just caught a wave and is paddling back out. Then Kai sees a wave and starts to paddle for it, the peak shifts slightly but he is still in a position to catch the wave. However, now Lysander sees an opportunity and paddles around Kai to get closer to the peak and catches the wave.
From this perspective, if Kai pops up, it looks as if he is dropping in on Lysander, and Kai’s only real position now is to exit the wave. Even though Lysander forced himself in the “better” position, both surfers know that Kai had the right of way. This is what you call snaking. And it should go without saying that it’s not cool to snake other surfers. People can get excited and want to be in a better position, but never paddle around someone to directly get a wave.
10. Don’t Backpaddle
If someone is up and riding that wave, don’t attempt to drop in between the surfer and the curl of the wave. That surfer can perform a cutback and run right into you. This is called backpaddling and it is considered as bad as dropping in or snaking.
Experienced surfers can also get through closed out sections and can outrun different sections of the wave. If a surfer riding a wave gets closed out with an impossible section or wipes out, the next surfer down the line can take off. If you’re a very new beginner I’d hold off on doing this anyway until you have a bit more experience. Always be aware of your positioning in relation to other surfers riding the waves.
11. Understand Priority
If you’re reading this you’re likely not surfing a WSL heat, but priority is still an important concept at every surf break. To put it simply, the surfer closest to the peak of the wave has priority over the surfer who is farther from the peak or on the shoulder.
Understanding priority is key to existing peacefully in a crowded lineup. The surfer who is closest to the curl, the peak or the breaking part of the wave has the right of way and priority over all other surfers. The surfer who is farther outside and away from the shore has priority over all other surfers sitting or paddling on the inside, even if closer to breaking part of the wave.
12. Know Your Wave
First things first, if you’re looking to get on a wave, it’s important to understand the science of how that happens. In order for you to successfully get up, you and your surfboard need to be traveling at around the same speed as the wave. Larger waves tend to travel much faster than smaller waves.
Being able to read your wave can help you know how fast or slow you need to paddle. This is crucial to your success because no matter how good your technique is if your speed is off, you’ll most likely struggle to catch a wave.
13. Find The Sweet Spot
The “sweet spot” on your board is the spot where your weight balances best. Finding this spot gives you the best control over your board, and you’ll want to keep your weight here at all times.
This is the spot where your chest pushes into while you’re paddling out and is typically the widest and thickest part of the surfboard. Being too far forward or too far back from it can affect how the nose and tail of your board are sitting in the water.
14. Posture Makes Perfect
Practice makes perfect, but only if you’re practicing the proper technique. When laying on your board, keep your lower back arched and make sure your weight is on the middle part of your stomach right under your ribs. It’s important to keep your core tight to create a nice rounded shape in your lower back. A good way to practice this off the water is to try the locust pose. This yoga move will strengthen your core and lower back and allow you to make a similar shape on the water.
15. Keep Your Head Up
Remember to keep your head lifted and still. If you move your head, another part of your body will shift to compensate for that motion. This can lead to drag, which will just slow you down and can throw off your balance.
16. Paddle Out With Efficiency
To get the most out of every paddle stroke, you want to use your full reach. Short strokes will tire out your muscles quicker and won’t get you very far. Think about how a swimmer does it, reaching your arm out and even adding a slight body roll to get that little extra bit of length. Paddling with this in mind will help you get the most propulsion out of each stroke and also helps conserve your energy.
17. Paddle With Purpose When Catching A Wave
Paddling will get you out to the good waves, and paddling will help you catch one. You catch a wave by paddling at almost the speed of the incoming wave. Two extra paddles will ensure you catch the wave successfully. Mastering your paddle speed will allow you to learn faster and catch beach waves earlier.
You can continue to improve your paddling by watching good surfers and emulating their moves. The more you practice, the more comfortable you will be when your surf day finally arrives. You will be more balanced and catch way more waves.
18. Surf Within Your Limits
Beginner surfers should never paddle into an area where advanced surfers are catching waves. Usually the waves are much more powerful and dangerous in these areas. While this may sound a tad condescending, understanding your own abilities in the water and humbly accepting them could save your life. If you’re still learning and you paddle out at an advanced wave, whether that’s a shallow reef break or any break on an overhead day, you run a high risk of injuring yourself and endangering those around you.
When you surf breaks within your ability, you can learn and progress, so that you can eventually surf more advanced breaks. One of the best things to do when arriving at the beach is to observe the waves for 10-15 minutes to make sure the surf spot is right for your abilities; just because the wave at a certain spot were great yesterday for your ability does not make it safe today.
19. Be Safe
In many ways, this should be rule number one. Beginner surfers should always check with the local lifeguards for dangerous rip currents or strong surf conditions before paddling out. When in doubt, don’t paddle out.
20. Choose Your Break Wisely
It doesn’t matter how good a surfer you become, you should always remember to assess your skill level and overall wellbeing on any given day before paddling out. We all should know how much to push as we progress, but most importantly, we should always respect the ocean. We are truly tiny in comparison to the power of Mother Nature and any situation can change very quickly if you are not fully aware of your surroundings.
If you are a beginner, you should only surf at established beach breaks when there are other surfers around. Stay away from rocks and reefs, and look for mellow small to midsize waves that allow you to practice safely. Even those places need to be assessed every time you go out. Is it too big for your skill level? Do you have the appropriate wetsuit to keep you warm during the session? What is your fitness level and your overall sense of awareness? Think smart, be honest with yourself, and stay safe. There’s no shame in saying that today is not your day, as there will only be other days if you are smart about it.
21. Stay In The Shallows When Necessary
If you aren’t ready to surf green waves or think that day is too big for you, then stay closer to shore. When you are learning to surf it’s actually the white water you are looking for, for it being far more consistent breaking, easier to catch and the ideal style of wave to learn the pop-up, practice and refine your stance, and begin small turns.
A rule of thumb is if you can touch the ground and stand-up comfortably when surfing the whitewater, then choose to stand. By standing, you are using yourself as an anchor and staying in good position. Progression happens much faster when you take every required step to progress. When you start to skip steps, this tends to lead to bad habits and will actually slow down your progression in the sport.
22. Don’t Be A Wave Hog
All of us are in the water for the same reason, to ride waves and to enjoy it. Now you may not know the science behind catching a wave but a bodyboard, shortboard, longboard or even a kayak all have different buoyancy, volumes. This means that they all catch waves at different points. With some of these watercrafts catching a wave far before the wave is peaking and breaking, and others at the last second. So remember, just because you can catch the wave, it doesn’t mean you should. Don’t be a wave hog. Give a wave, take a wave. Share the stoke and keep it fair.
23. Communicate: Talk To Your Fellow Surfer!
Communication is often something not spoken too much, which is ironic, but this can help your surf session a lot. Firstly, simply telling someone good morning, especially at a new spot, can go a long way. But communication can also help a lot in the water itself. For example, if you find yourself paddling for a wave with another surfer to your side, just ask if they’re going left or right. You may find you are both paddling for the same wave but are planning on surfing in the opposite direction. This will save both of you the trouble of battling for it, missing the wave or being out of position. Good communication creates a more enjoyable vibe, which is a beneficial thing for everyone.
24. Say Sorry When It’s Your Bad
These rules are something to always have in the back of your mind and will become more natural to you with time. Always remember that every surfer has been a beginner at some point. Everyone’s gotta start somewhere. But one of the most important things to remember is simply to say sorry. You will find a head nod, a wave gesture and a quick sorry will go a long way. Just imagine you have caught the perfect wave and someone drops in, if they just look at you after and say nothing it may grind your gears a little, but if they say sorry, you quickly realize it’s not the end of the world and it’s hard to stay mad at someone who is genuinely apologetic.
25. Give Respect To Get Respect
We would all love to surf spots where everyone follows these rules, but the reality is this isn’t always the case. As a beginner, try to be as respectful as possible. You may come across more experienced surfers or locals who don’t always follow the exact same rules. But even then, common courtesty and some respect goes a long way. You will often find people reciprocate this energy are nice in return. And if they aren’t, guess what? That’s their problem. You have gone out of your way to show your respect and more often that not, you’ll get it right back.
26. Don’t Do It For The Gram
There are many well-known surf spots that are widely publicized on publications, new outlets and Instagram pages. Now, there’s certainly no problem with posting pictures of these spots online. Everyone has the right to surf any waves, especially on public land. If a surfer puts in the work to find less well-known waves, great for him or her. They have earned the right to ride that wave and should be allowed to enjoy it in harmony with others. But, if you find yourself in a more low key spot on oceans, rivers or lakes, don’t be afraid to enjoy the moment and leave your smartphone in the car. This will help drastically when it comes to issues with local surfers, who may not want their spot to be publicly posted on all social media platforms. After all, surfing is about being in harmony with nature. Do it for you, not for the gram.
27. Look Out For Your Fellow Shredder
As surfers, we are in charge of our own safety and are the only ones who can rescue other surfers and swimmers in distress. If you are out on the water, be sure to look out for one another, and to help those who may be stranded outside in desperate times. If someone appears to be drowning, approach them with care and offer your board or a floatation device. Once they are no longer panicking, start to bring them back to shore with the help of the waves. One compassionate pair of eyes can save lives.
28. Be Decisive
Like so many things in life, it’s important to be decisive in surfing. As surf legend Laird Hamilton once said, “I think the biggest mistake any beginner makes is hesitation. You need to be deliberate with your actions, and if you’re going to paddle out of the way, just paddle and keep paddling. I think a real common mistake is people being indecisive in their movements, whether it’s trying to catch the wave or get out of the way.” So when you’re getting out of the way, do it. And when you go for that sweet wave, really go for it.
29. Keep The Ocean Clean
Don’t litter. Simple as that. Pick up your trash, and try to pick up a few pieces of trash before you leave even if it’s not yours. Please help keep our beaches clean and leave nothing but your footprints. Be sure to show the beach some respect as well. We are lucky enough to have these beautiful beaches all around us. Let’s all take a few extra moments to be grateful for Mother Nature and give her the respect she deserves.
30. Have Fun. Good Vibes Only.
Nobody enjoys being around a cranky person on land, and guess what? It’s even worse in the water. Positivity creates positive spaces for people to enjoy themselves, the waves and the company of one another. Like any sport, you’re going to have some bad days, but don’t let it ruin everyone else’s session. You don’t need to be hooting and hollering to have a good time, but try to leave any negativity at home when paddling out. Leave your bad vibes in the car and enjoy the stoke.