The wetsuit is a common sight at any surf spot. Every day surfers suit up before hitting the waves. Originally designed for scuba divers, surfers claim a huge market for wetsuits. But why do surfers wear them? The main reason surfers wear wetsuits is to stay warm in the water. Furthermore, the wetsuits torso provides a level of grip to the surfboard.
In general, the purpose of a wetsuit is to stay warm in cold water. Wetsuits are made of neoprene, a type of synthetic rubber. This material is filled with small, uniform bubbles that insulate against the cold.
When wet, these bubbles fill with water that then becomes trapped in the material. The body heats up this water, creating a protective layer against the cold ocean.
By wearing a wetsuit, surfers are able to surf previously unavailable waters from Iceland or even just Northern California.
Wearing a wetsuit also extends the time surfers are able to stay in the water. Instead of running the risk of hypothermia, or coming out stiff and frozen, surfers can enjoy riding waves for hours in the right wetsuit.
Due to the nature of neoprene, they also provide some floatation benefits. Neoprene floats in water, giving the wearer extra buoyancy in the water. This helps surfers when they’re thrown from their boards and have to swim after them.
History Of The Surfer’s Wetsuit
The original wetsuit design came out of Southern California in 1951. Developed by Hugh Bradner with UC Berkeley researchers, the wetsuit was designed for Navy divers.
They were looking to create a diving suit that didn’t rely on the wearer staying dry.
The use of neoprene was a game changer for the wetsuit. Its ability to hold water revolutionized the wetsuit and eventually led to its use in other watersports.
Though Bradner invented the original wetsuit, Northern California surfer, Jack O’Neill, and the Southern California company that became Body Glove are credited with the creation of wetsuits for surfers.
These wetsuits came out around the same time as Bradner’s company in the early 50s.
Before the wetsuit, surfers experimented with dry suits, thick wool sweaters, and even sweaters doused in kerosene to make them more waterproof.
These options would work somewhat in staying warm in the cold water, but also came with complications and risks.
They restricted the ability to paddle and swim, making it harder to surf. And once wet, they became heavy, posing the risk of drowning in the waves. The neoprene wetsuit helped solve these problems.
However, there was still a ways to go before the surfing community embraced the widespread use of wetsuits. The neoprene that early wetsuits were made of lacked the stretch that surfers needed through the arms making them terrible to paddle in.
They also lacked zippers, making them a huge chore to take on and off. Literally to the point that there were competitions to see who could get a wetsuit on the fastest.
The thick rubber fabric also often caused rashes from rubbing against the skin. Manufacturers began tweaking the design to make them more comfortable for surfers’ needs and by the mid 60s wetsuits were commonplace.
Since then, wetsuits have become a staple piece of gear for any surfer. They come in an array of styles and thickness for different temperature needs.
The fabric has become more elastic and structure has been improved to prevent chafing and allow better movement through the arms. Today, most surfers wouldn’t go out without one.
Pros of Wearing a Wetsuit
Obviously wearing a wetsuit helps to keep you warm. But there’s more to the wetsuit than just that.
They also allow for longer surf sessions. By staying warm longer, water temperature doesn’t have to be a factor when you go out to surf. Wetsuits act as a barrier against your surfboard. Basically like a rashguard, preventing chafing against your board.
Wearing a wetsuit helps you float. This extra buoyancy helps when you go chasing after your board. Or even when you need a break, you can float on your back. They absorb some of the impact when you crash into the water, making for a softer landing.
And lastly, they protect your skin. When your board comes flying at you, or when you’re pummeled by the waves against a reef, a wetsuit takes the hit first. Thus preventing cuts and scrapes.
- Keeps you warm.
- Allows for longer surf session
- Acts as barrier to board preventing rash
- Extra buoyancy
- Absorbs some impact when hitting the water
- Protects skin from cuts when hit by fins or on the reef
Cons of Wearing a Wetsuit
Although a wetsuit can be super beneficial, there are also some cons to wearing one. Some people have skin issues when wearing a wetsuit. Some have a reaction to neoprene itself, but others develop a rash where sensitive skin constantly rubs against the fabric. Generally this shows up in the armpits from paddling and is part of why it’s important to find the right wetsuit.
There’s also some restricted movement, depending on the wetsuit you purchase. If you have long sleeves, this can be an annoyance when paddling. Wetsuits are also expensive. Usually several hundred dollars, a good wetsuit is a big investment in your surfing.
They can also be a hassle to get on and off. Although wetsuits are much easier to get on nowadays versus back in the 60s, they can still be a pain. Since wetsuits are made to be tight, it can be a chore to get your hands and feet pulled through the legs and armholes.
There’s some tricks that will help, like using bags on your feet when you pull through for less friction. Or turning your suit inside out and rolling it on through the foot and arm openings.
But in general, putting on a wetsuit is a process on its own.
- Possibility of skin reaction to suit
- Possibility of restriction of movement
- Expensive
- Annoying to take on and off
- Requires specific care
How to Choose the Right Wetsuit
Despite some cons, the benefits far outweigh any annoyance of wearing a wetsuit. But with so many variations today, it’s important to know how to pick out the right one.
Styles
There’s a vast variation of style for wetsuits and depends greatly on your needs, preference and the water temperature you’ll be surfing in.
You can choose as minimal as a vest, all the way to a full suit of long sleeves and legs. Here’s a breakdown of styles.
- Vest: Only covers the chest, good for warm water
- Jacket: Also for warm water, provides upper body coverage
- Short John: Basically a connected vest and shorts. Adds some lower body coverage over just a vest or jacket
- Long John: A long pant version of the short john, also with no sleeves.
- Springsuit: A shorts style wetsuit with either short or long sleeves. Common in cool water.
- Short Arm Steamer: Short sleeves with long pants. Allows easier movement in paddling with more coverage.
- Fullsuit: Long sleeves and pants. This style is for cold waters, providing maximum warmth and coverage.
Thickness
In addition to various cuts, wetsuits also come in different thicknesses. Thickness is one of the most important aspects of a wetsuit as this is where the warmth comes from.
Wetsuit thickness is listed by two numbers such as, 4/3 or 5/4. These numbers indicate the thickness in millimeters.
The first number corresponds to the thickness in the core or body of the suit. The second number is for the thickness through the limbs.
The thinner fabric through the arms and legs helps provide easier movement while surfing and the thicker neoprene through the body keeps the vital organs protected.
The colder the water, the thicker the wetsuit needs to be. Here’s a list of water temperature and the recommended wetsuit thickness from coldest to warmest.
- 42 degrees and below F: 6/5 mm and above
- 43 – 52 degrees F: 5/4 mm – 6/5 mm
- 52 – 58 degrees F: 4/3 mm – 5/4 mm
- 58 – 63 degrees F: 3/2 mm – 4/3 mm
- 62 – 68 degrees F: 2/1 mm – 3/2 mm
- 65 – 75 degrees F: .5 mm – 2/1 mm
- Above 72: Not Needed
Fit
After choosing a style and thickness, it’s vital to make sure your suit fits properly.
If a suit is too loose, with gaps or folds, water will seep in and the wetsuit won’t be able to do its job. If a suit is too tight, movement will be restricted, the fabric will be stretched too thin and you may have trouble breathing.
A wetsuit should fit tight but not be uncomfortable or impede your ability to surf. It should fit like a second skin, laying flat over the body.
Check the lower back. The fabric should lay flush to the skin. If it’s stretched out creating a gap, or crumpled up, the suit doesn’t fit right.
Make paddling motions in your suit, check that you have full range of motion. Watch out for excessive rubbing against the skin as this can lead to a rash.
Check the hips and thighs, watching out for bunching or stretching. Again, the fabric should lay smoothly over your body.
And last, check out the wrists and ankles. You don’t want to cut off circulation, but you do want it fitted to keep out the most water.
Related Questions
Do You Need a Wetsuit to Surf?
You can absolutely surf without a wetsuit as long as you’re comfortable in the temperature of the ocean you’re in.
Ocean temperature varies greatly and in cold waters, you definitely need one. However, if you’re in Hawaii on a summer day, you can definitely surf without a wetsuit.
Can You Get Too Hot In a Wetsuit?
Depending on the style you wear and the water temperature, you can definitely get too warm while wearing a wetsuit. If you were wearing a 5/4 fullsuit out in tropical waters, you run the risk of overheating. It’s basically like if you were wearing a sweatshirt and pants on a hot day.
On the other hand though, if you wore the same suit off the coast of Northern California in the winter, you’ll be just fine.
